Some people are of the view that having two or more extruders on your printer is beneficial because it will print faster. While this is true to some extent, it is not the entire truth. The presence of multiple extruders in your printer do speed up the printing process but not because they are more in number but because you save time on changing from one filament to the other. Since these filaments are piped in together, they are used whenever the printing requires it.
Dual extruder kits for 3D printers are able to produce multi-colored 3D prints. They can use the two extruders to print finely. However, with the availability of several types of such dual extruder kits, you will have to search for the one that is ideal for your purpose. The factors to check before purchasing any dual extruder kit include type and model of 3D printer, the type of printing you generally require and the price that you can pay.
We did the research part for you and have prepared a list of the best 3D printer dual extruder kits available in the market. These kits have been reviewed for their quality of construction, the specific printers they will work with and their price. You can peruse through the list to find the best one for your requirement.
QIDI TECHNOLOGY 3DP-QDA16-01 Dual Extruder Desktop 3D Printer QIDI TECH I, Fully Metal Frame Structure, Acrylic Covers, with2 Free Filaments, Works with ABS and PLA
Scored 4.5/5.0 – From 181 Customer Reviews
Priced From $679.00
- Fdm technology; dual Extruder; obtained CE,FCC, RoHS certificates; qidi technology is registered trademark by edify technology Inc
- Aviation level aluminum plate its surface is completely flat and will NOT warp during heating process
- Easy to Use software for simple customization of 3D models
- Fully metal external frame much more stronger than PVC plate and wooden frame
- New high heat resistant metal platform supports replace plastic supports
First off, let me say that I feel like a pretty technically competent person but this is also my first 3D printer experience. After weeks of research, this seemed like the perfect choice to me because I will sacrifice some ease of use and don’t need the “Name Brand” if I can still get most of the features while saving money.This is the ticket as it has plenty of the important features like SD Card Printing, Heated Build Plate, Full Enclosure for environment stability for ABS, and a dual extruder. It is also a huge price savings compared to the original model this was based off of. Possibly only ships on saturdays if you choose free shipping, so be patient. Used this for a few weeks, so far so good!Overall:This is a pretty nice unit for the price. Comes with spare parts and everything to get you going. The operation isn’t very loud and is almost musical. The loudest part is probably the initial cooling fan for the power supply? I can comfortably sit right next to the printer in action and still work on my computer. It’s almost mesmerising just to watch it do it’s thing. The white lighting is nice, but it really needs a light at nozzle height so you can watch your print better. ABS fumes aren’t killer, only slightly noticeable when you stand up.Boxing and Assembly:Packaging was quite nice and tight, had trouble getting the initial box out from under the printer lip but after that it all comes apart. Unit came with a free Kg spool of White ABS and Blue PLA. Checked everywhere, didn’t receive an SD with the Instruction but I figured it out from the very basic “instruction pamphlet”. Bolt the Extruders to the X-Axis Carriage, mount the fan, attach filament pegs and guide tubes, assemble the flimsy roof and side panels and you’re done.Initial Improvements:- Bent a paperclip into a hook to hold the hatch open, crude but effective at keeping the door off your head- Printed out the Flash Forge Guide Clip to hold the wire up with the filament guide tubes.- Grab a small box to hold plastic shavings- Get a thinner putty knife that would actually help pry off prints if needed.Before your first print:* Home Axes:— Go through your “Utilities” menu and Home the Axes to make sure everything moves around properly. Use Jog to manually move around if needed.* Load filament:— In the “Utilities” menu. The extruders will heat up and grab your inserted filament.— Once the Factory filament is purged and your color is coming out nicely you can stop.— If you only plan to use one extruder, USE THE RIGHT EXTRUDER. This is the default one.* Level Build Plate:— Go to the Menu Menu Preheat and start heating your build plate. Skip the Extruders to keep plastic from dripping out. (Plate may expand so this will compensate for running conditions)— While it’s warming up, go to Utilities and Scroll to Level Build Plate, This will raise the plate. (Preheat still works in the background)— find the 3 adjusting wing nuts under the build plate and back them off so the extruder nozzles don’t touch the mat. (Counter-clockwise if you imagine a clock on the top mat surface)— When it is hot (100-110ºC) grab a piece of printer paper and slide it under the nozzle to check for proper distance.— Move the extruders to the front left corner and adjust only the front left wing nut clockwise until a slight amount of drag is felt when sliding the paper between it and the mat. A little less is better than a little too much.— Do the same for the front right side, and finally the rear center. Now move the extruders to the center and test the drag. Adjust all equally until the center feels good and you should be level and ready to print.First Print:*If you got an SD Card, then you can try printing out the test file if you like. If not, time to find a computer.*Load up MakerBot (free) and under Devices -> Select Type of Device set the Printer to “Replicator (Dual)”*Get something SIMPLE like a 20mm Calibration Cube file off Thingiverse or make one in TinkerCad and download the .STL*Drag the file into the MakerBot Window and you should see your object appear in the box.— In order to mess with this object, first click it to select it, then double click on any of the boxes to the left to mess with the dimensions or extruder if needed*Print Settings:— With the object selected, Click Settings at the top middle to view the printer settings. The Basics will get you going.— Start with “Low,” No Supports, No Raft, Layer Height (0.30mm), Infill 10%, Number of Shells 2.— Now for my custom suggestion, Set the left extruder to 0ºC so that no plastic drips out of it— and the BIG one, set the Platform Temperature to 100ºC. This was a HUGE help in getting my prints to pop off the bed easier. Seriously, you could almost pick up the printer by the print with it set to 110ºC. If 100ºC is too cold and the first layer isn’t sticky then you can bump it up a bit. (Make sure it’s not a build plate leveling issue!)— Click Okay and then move over to preview.* Preview and Export:— You will see estimated time, material used, number of layers, and what the model will look like.— It’s a good idea to scrub through the layers and see if there are any “impossible” layers like floating parts without supports and such.— If all is good then click export. Export to your SD Card on the root, don’t put it in any folders.— Eject the SD Card from your computer and put it in the printer (Open the door and it sits right behind the LCD Screen, gold contacts facing the back)* Starting the Print.— Make sure your build surface is clean of fingerprints and other materials. I used Acetone to initially clean it. Let it dry.— I don’t need any kind of adhesive to get prints to stick, the mat does just fine.— Go to “Print from SD” and select your file. (If you get a read error, just hit okay and try again and it should work.)— Select your file and the printer will go into the preheating position. It will heat the build plate first, then heat the extruder. (You may get a took too long error, hit okay and it will just keep going.)— When it is hot it will make a tone and start the process. It will lay an initial bead in the front to clean the nozzle. Then it will move to the print area and begin the first layer.— Grab a flashlight and carefully watch as it moves around and extrudes the plastic. The first layer should sit on the mat, not float on top or be smeared into the mat. If it is, you may have to cancel the print and re level the plate accordingly.— if the first layer goes well, keep an eye on how layers meet and see if the walls look good, not over or under extruding. If all goes well, you will eventually have your first print within 10 minutes to an hour depending on the size and complexity of the model you choose.*Removing the Print.— Once the printer is done it will play a tone and show you the time and length of filament required. Hit okay.— I like to switch to the “Monitor Mode” under “Utilities” so that I can see the Temperature of everything. If you’re American like me, maybe print out a ºC to ºF Chart, or just remember that anything above 50ºC is probably too hot to touch.— Now here is where good bed temps, and the size of the first layer play a big part in removing the print. If all goes well, you should be able to grab the print firmly and move around forward and backwards until it breaks loose. This can be rather violent at times and your print may go flying.— If your print is stuck, give the bed more time to cool. I found that with higher bed temps, prints would break free easier when the bed was under 70-50ºC.— If the print is still stuck at room temperature, it’s time to grab that putty knife and try to get underneath the print on one corner. Go at around 5-10º so you don’t damage the mat surface. If the putty knife won’t get under it, you can try tapping a razor blade underneath the print and try to work the perimeter free and be VERY careful of the mat. If you can’t get it off now, I don’t know what to tell you, time for the blow torch and jaws of life.*Examining the Print— I’m still playing with how to get a good print, but I have noticed that ABS shrinks around 2-3% so keep that in mind if you need very accurate dimensions.— There are sites dedicated to what to look for in your prints so I won’t go over that here.*Cleaning up— At first I used the purple glue stick and would clean up with acetone but it was a little messy. Now that I let the mat do the work, I just use my putty knife to scrape off any leftover plastic from the plate real quick before getting read for the next print. I’ve had fine results with just that.Well there you have it. Don’t be afraid to play with the settings to try and get the best print you can. It’s a really fun little process and eventually your desk will be full of plastic trinkets. Happy Printing!
[New Arrival] HICTOP Filament Monitor Desktop 3D Printer Kits Reprap Prusa I3 MK8 DIY Self-assembly Printing size 10.6″ x 8.3″ x 7.7″
Scored 4.0/5.0 – From 61 Customer Reviews
Priced From $315.99
I bought this printer while it was a Prime item. Therefore shipping was 2days as advertised. I opened the box and all I could think was “Wow, that’s a whole lotta parts. This won’t end well.” After seeing the reviews from some of their other printers I was skeptical about the assembly instructions. Well the included CD with drivers and documentation was perfect. The two assembly PDFs while not 100% accurate the errors were minor. First PDF lists the parts. I glanced at it. The second PDF had the assembly instructions. Took a deep breath and started assembly. It was going so s I thought “I’llbe done in 2 hours”. Removing the backing paper Frome the acrylic plastic frame took longer than putting it together. Then came all the smaller components and I thought I’d never finish. Yet the instructions were pretty much on track. On the end it too me about 6 hours to put it together and then another 2-4 hours to troubleshoot, test, and calibrate the machine.Lessons Learned:A big bag of left over parts is not necessarily a bad thing. They provide spares so don’t freak when you discover you’re done and still have parts left over.Take care in connecting the power supply. Yep I connected to two COM instead of V+ and COM. My handy multimeter pointed out the dead machine issue right away. No biggie.Run through the calibration video on their YouTube channel for the aluminum frame machine. It’s a perfect fit for this machine.The PDF assembly section of the X axis was a little off. It highlights that the guide rods should be flush with the right support. However it fails to mention that you may need to slide the support in to align it with the vertical guide rods.The reel support assembly rod was two short. For now I just bent the supports in slightly. I’ll purchase another threaded rod from home depot at a later date.The screwed for the heat sink, fan, extruder assembly were to long. Remember that large bag of spare parts? Just use other screws.The machine boot up showed max temp error. The FAQ on the CD provided proper instruction on replacing the thermistor with the spare provided.Wiring cleanup went well with the provided loop. However the frame does have feed through holes on it. The PDF should provide examples on how to guide your wiring.Some things the manufacturer may consider are;Getting a better translator. Still the FAQ and the instructions were understandable.Providing some getting started in 3D printing links. Not necessary but would help newbies like me. Google got me going fast enough though.Providing some basic print parameters for this machine.Overall this experience has been great. Would I build another? Probably not, but doing it once gives you a familiarity with the device you can’t get from a prebuilt non customizable device. I’m already thinking of upgrades.Would I recommend this device to others? Sure thing with just a caveat. Be prepared to take 2 days before your first print.The photo is of my first print. The model comes on the CD and I scaled it down in CURA to 75% since I couldn’t wait 2 hours for a full size version. I was blown away by how well it worked out.
CTC 3d Printer, Dual Extruder + New Extruder + Dual Nozzle, 8.8″x5.7″x5.9″build Volume, with Abs or Pla Spool
Scored 4.7/5.0 – From 43 Customer Reviews
Priced From $529.99
- Easy to use software for simple customization of 3D models
- More convenient use SD card alone to print
- 24 hours dispatched from CA, 1 year warranty whole machine
- Pre-installed extruder provides fast, out-of-box use
- Large build platform for bigger projects; Maximum build volume: 225 x 145 x 150 mm
this is a solid 3D printer. I guess my point is, have the appropriate expectations, and be willing to learn… then you will love this product.PROS:- Dual Extruders- Support for numerous materials (ABS, PLA, etc.)- Pretty good sized heated build surface- Good resolution and print speed- Sturdy, heavy duty construction (even though it is wood, it’s very good quality and well put together)- Easily modded, open construction- Suitable for most skill levels (as far as 3D printing goes)Overall:This is a great machine, especially for the money. It is very similar to the Replicator, which is more than double the cost of this printer. If I had it all to do over, I would still chose this printer. I’ve had a really solid printing experience, and almost no problems out of this thing. I think it definitely earns the 5 stars.
WER Delta Rostock mini G2s DIY kit with auto-leveling dual extruder,auto-calibrationsupport multiple way of printing
Scored 4.2/5.0 – From 9 Customer Reviews
Priced From $399.00
- With dual extruder, Auto-leveling, support multiple way of printing; Shipped from China by DHL or shipped from US warehouse directly, shorter delivery date
- The printing effector with metal parts, which are more durable and stable; The whole machine is craft out of high-quality aluminum and laser cut acrylic plate, making it more stable and smooth when printing, improving the printing accuracy and speed to a higher level.
- With new metal leveling device, the calibration will be more accurate
- not only supports PLA and ABS, Nylon and wood filament is also available, which enables more possibilities to create 3D printing project
- With LCD control panel; you can monitor the printing process in real time and with a SD card it can realize stand-alone printing, very convenient.
Key things to keep in mind while ordering (ANY) “DIY” 3D Printer kit:1. This is BLEEDING edge technology. Meaning, it’s too new a tech to be mainstream for an average consumer. You will need to do custom tweaking of settings in order to get any kind of success. This is not a novice or intermediate task. This is for experts what have prior skills. Those that are familiar with moderate electronics and Arduino micro controllers with some decent mechanical skills should be able to successfully assemble this product. Do not over-torque any parts and double check all your wiring.2. PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE. The online instructions for this printer state this again and again, and this is for good reason. You will NOT get a successful print the first try. Don’t even expect to have a successful print in the first week, as you will read everywhere in forums it takes weeks to perfect. You must calibrate and read, calibrate and read, calibrate and read. You will not get enough detail from the instruction manual alone, you will need to do your research end to end as the instructions are assembly only. You will need to learn 3d software, what slicing is, what solid vs. mesh is, how to flash Arduino with custom firmware, etc. etc.3. Be prepared to make mistakes. These kits are made of common parts that you can order replacements for. You may need to do some calling and driving around, but things like bearings, screws, belts are typically all available in your area if you look hard enough. Don’t be overly worried about breaking something, unless you can’t stand the 4-week wait for new parts to arrive from China. If you do need to order new parts, you will build a huge appreciation for the cost savings this kit gives you. Parts in the U.S. are 10x the price they are in China.If they above scares you, then you may want to consider purchasing a pre-built and pre-calibrated unit. There is a reason why they are 2-3 times the price, because many hours go into assembly and calibration. If you are new to 3D printing and have the skills to assemble one, I HIGHLY recommend the DIY kit as you will learn all about how it works and how to repair it when you need to.Product Review:SHIPPING: This product came from China, and I was expecting this. There was an issue with customs/tax fees which the vendor tackled right away and made good on without fuss. For the price/quality to be as good as it is, you have to wait, and it was well worth the wait. It took about a month as was stated on the shipping info on checkout. It was well packaged as my box arrived in a condition that I was expecting it to be completely disintegrated as it was crushed on all sides. This wasn’t the case with the contents as there was no damage to parts accept cosmetic casing on the power supply. Nothing was cracked or bent, but I did recommend they ship in a stronger container.QUALITY: With the above said, let’s get down to the product itself. The Quality of this product is MUCH higher than I expected for the entry level price. You get a complete kit all laser-cut and cast metal parts. The prior versions of these kits had 3D printed parts which are more prone to failure. These parts are well constructed and solid. I’ve produced a number of great quality prints now and can feel comfortable that this unit will perform ongoing. The extruder motors don’t get hot as they are actively cooled with a fan. Many of the first/second generation issues are all weeded out and addressed in this product as you will read in the forums from issues caused by hot extruders or print beds without heaters, etc.Here’s a printer sample of my own: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zV6kkil8y_QI used this filament: Hatchbox 1.75mm Black PLA 3D Printer Filament – 1kg Spool (2.2 lbs) – Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mmINSTRUCTIONS: Are available online. This is always better as you will get the latest updates to the manual. It is well done, much better than I had anticipated with little to no translation issues to language. There were some differences in this kit as I could tell some parts had been upgraded from prior versions, but they had forgot to adjust the screw dimensions to make up the difference in the part thickness. This led to some screws that were too short to fully assemble all the parts. I’ve worked with the vendor and the manufacturer already to outline these issues in the kit and should hopefully be resolved before there are more orders. It was not as much a concern as these are standard screws I was able to purchase from my local hardware store with the appropriate length. This vendor bent over backwards to help resolve these concerns and I’m left with a complete product and couldn’t be happier. THERE IS A VIDEO! I was about ½ way done with the assembly before finding it. I highly recommend looking at both the videos and the instructions. You will also find a video on how to calibrate the unit using Repetier Host software.Here is the first part of the video series to start you off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBmHJyc_2nAAnd calibration video (IMPORTANT):https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCa_Bvx8OWsVENDOR: I didn’t get any response from Geeetech the manufacturer, but the vendor (Wercan) is fantastic and extremely responsive. Wercan bent over backwards to ensure I had a good experience and value with the product. I’ve learned that this kit was well underpriced for the quality, so as far as DIY kits go, I wouldn’t think twice about ordering another printer through them again.
Scored 4.3/5.0 – From 27 Customer Reviews
Priced From $12.50
I recently finished building my first 3d printer which was based on the prusa I3 design. This heatbed was the first upgrade for my printer. It arrived as specified in the description. One thing of note, The board arrives “naked” without any LEDs or wire, both of which can be picked up for next to nothing elsewhere. The bed heats up fairly quick and quite evenly throughout. I wired my M2KB for 12 volts quite easily because the directions were conveniently printed on the front of the board. The board arrives perfectly flat with clearly defined mounting holes. Though I would recommend attaching this board to some sort of substrate instead of using the traditional spring leveling method because I’ve noticed that at temperature my board does tend to bow but then returns flat when cooled.All in all this is a good solid board that works reliably and once I start my next printer I will definitely be a return customer!!!
Scored 5.0/5.0 – From 1 Customer Reviews
Priced From $255.00
Scored 4.7/5.0 – From 29 Customer Reviews
Priced From $319.00
i gave 5 stars because this is a $300.00 DIY printer, and i was able to assemble it, and print in 2 days. this being my first 3d printer, i am happy with it even though the build was pretty tough. lets start with the X carriage: the plastic motor mount on the right side of the carriage had to be drilled out to make the carriage short enough to mount to the acrylic frame. I was very careful and used a drill bit the same size as the smooth rods so as to not introduce unwanted movement or flex in the axis. after drilling out the mount for the rods, it was still very difficult to assemble the carriage.the nuts that are suposed to slide into the plastic end pieces for the z axis threaded rods, were loose and caused so much slop in the movement that the x axis carriage would not move evenly or smoothly along the z axis. it was impossible to level the print surface untill i drilled and tapped a set screw into the plastic housing to hold the nuts in place.Z-Axis: the x axis carriage is raised and lowered along the z axis by twin rotating stepper motors turning a threaded rod on either side of the x axis carriage. one of the rods was bent bad enough that is was visible prior to installing it, but not significantly enough to affect the accuracy of the axis. the z axis end stop is flimsy and needed to be reinforced due to the axis not going to the same home spot each time. a simple spare nut from the “spart parts” bag was enough to lock the z axis end stop in place. the bearings on the top of the acrylic frame needed to be glued in place due to the bend in the threaded rods, they kept coming out. a drop of 5 minute epoxy on each is holding them in place nicely.Y axis: the Y axis went together very well. the only trouble is the end stop cannot be placed where the manual calls for it because it is exactly where the metal frame mounts to the acrylic frame. I had to bend the lever on the micro switch and place it just right so the table does not crash into the switch, but the micro switch is still tripped when the plate moves to the end stop.I had no problems with the extruder, or loading the firmware into the Arduino. I did have a bad stepper motor controller on the RAMPS shield, but fortunately they send a “spare”. the kit should include some type of wire management, something like they show in the build manual would be nice, but anything is better than nothing, which is what it has. the wiring is plenty long, all i had to do was use my soldering iron to “tin” the stripped ends of the wire.There is no main Power switch, not a huge deal, but it would be nice to not have to unplug the printer, instead just turn it off. the zip ties they supply for the linear bearings are very weak, and hard to get tight enough without breaking them.all in all, i do love the printer! having very little knowledge of 3d printers, i was able to build, calibrate, and print my first part within 2 days. the directions are for an earlier revision, but still pretty simple to follow. the laser cut acrylic fits together flawlessly, and looks great. I expect to have to make minor modifications on any DIY kit, so the trouble with the z axis in my opinion is not a big deal, but the problems i had with the x axis concerned me until my first print was complete.
FlashForge 3d Printer, Dual Extruder, Both ABS and PLA Compatible, 8.8″x5.7″x5.9″build Volume, W/2 Free Rolls
Scored 4.4/5.0 – From 200 Customer Reviews
Priced From $859.00
Amazon suggests a shorter reply but if you are going to spend 1300 dollars on something you probably want to know as much as possible. So will do this in point form, overall it does deserve a 4-5 star rating with the difference being how much fiddling you are willing to put up with for me I’m tolerant and I like the tweaking so it gets a 5.Why I bought this printer:- Price for a printer with two extruders could not be beat.– at the date I purchased, I stopped looking after I ordered- Google groups showed some problems and company seemed to be addressing the issue as they came in a fair manner, and revising design- Similar to makerbot replicator, other post here highlighted the differencesWhy I almost didn’t buy this printer- Flashforge website is a bit of a mess seems there are two sites that link back and forth with one another- One report of a shipping problem (how would I deal with that kind of problem being 12 timezones away)Positive First thoughts- Arrived well packaged, box wasn’t beat-up to badly but it defiantly wasn’t handled with kid gloves- Was able to print in an hour or so of opening the box- Printing something in 3d is defiantly something to watch the first few times you do it- They emailed me the most up to date manual the day my printer was to be delivered, (a nice personal touch I thought)- They include Spare parts (screws that will roll under something, molded plastic retaining hardware so it will still look stock if you accidentally break something )Negative First thoughts- Manual mentioned black screws to install extruder assembly there were no black screws in my package of parts, a screw length would have been more useful- Some advice on how to prepare the print surface would have helped- Clear example of how to do your first print may help someone who hasn’t researched skienforge/ makerbot/ maker ware/flashforgePositive a week later- Firmware update scary but was easy (sailfish firmware was worth the update)- Dual prints work well (although I still have to figure out deprime settings)- Happy to find makerware works to generate Gcode- Still lots of filament left despite heavy use the first few days- I feel comfortable enough to start a print and go to bed now- I was happy to find the makerbot replicator design files on thingiverse, so claims that this is built from an open source design were easy to confirm. It makes me just that little bit happier I bought this one.- The flashforge team really put a good device together, branching off an ok design and getting it just right, it really works just out of the box.Negatives a week later- Weaknesses appear to be in software it is almost all open source so not FF fault– It’s always improving but if you don’t have the patience to deal with software updates, non ideal workflows and several different ways to do things, maybe wait to get a 3d printer- My only faults in dual prints are the other colour oozing out of the extruder (again likely software configuration/proper use issue)- I have some issues with warped bottoms on larger prints; however use of fresh kapton, a wash of acetone/leftover plastic seems to work well for me if I need a perfect print.Open issues:- PLA printing (CLOSED see addendum)– Seems to be fixed in later printers– Not sure if my printer is in the “fixed” or” partially fixed” batch not an issue for me right now. However I would like to see the Level of effort to make the fix. I think it’s just to replace the nozzles but I am not sure.well that’s my review hope it helps someone sitting on the fence one way or anotherAddendum:good news- its been almost 5 months now still runs like a champ- flashforge sent me an upgraded extruder so in theory i can print PLA, i need to get around to trying that out but news on the forums says it works fairly well-found printer travels well if you add plexi glass panels… everything you need piles into the printer and a box making it easy to bring it some where to show.- software is a little better. but that combined with unchecked models on thingiverse is still the cause of most of my failed prints.bad news- had to replace the x-axis end stop wire with the included one (again 20 min of my time so no big deal just scary when it failed that’s all )- i am not printing every day (but i never expected i would be running 24/7)(also fixed some typos above)
Scored 5.0/5.0 – From 1 Customer Reviews
Priced From $35.99
This is much better than the original Bowden extruder that came with my Prusa I3. It has high quality machining and fits together perfectly. Best of all. It makes it really easy to change filament rolls, unlike the Bowden. Great product. WARNING: make sure that you know what orientation you need because it comes in a right and left configuration (spring assembly right or left). Different vendors have different descriptions, and even incorrect pictures. It took me two attempts to get the correct one. 3dCAM was very cooperative and helpful.
HICTOP Prusa I3 DIY 3D Printer Aluminum Frame Desktop Computer FDM Printer Support PLA/ABS/Wood/HIPS/Flexible Filament
Scored 4.5/5.0 – From 2 Customer Reviews
Priced From $329.00
This is the second Hictop I have built and it went together with ease and the first print was perfect. My first HicTop I have had for a year now and it’s in constant use and hasn’t given me any problems. This one I added the self leveling kit to it and I contacted HicTop who supplied a link to the firmware update I needed for it. All is working well.
3D printing has grown by leaps and bounds, more so because of the increased demand for 3D prints and their price getting lowered. However, you will be able to save on your 3D printing costs and time if you use dual extruder kits.
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