When you require adding a threaded hole to an object, you can use the threaded inserts. Also known by the name of threaded bushing, these are fasteners that have threading either inside, outside or on both the sides. Threaded inserts can be of several types and of several materials like stainless steel and carbon steel.
Using steel threaded insert has many advantages. They can be inserted in soft materials like magnesium, aluminum and cast iron. Simple to install with standard tools, they can be placed in a hole where a fastener is required. Many of the available variants are self locking ones which have pre-applied adhesive which activates once the installation is done. The steel threaded inserts can be used in a variety of industrial applications such as automotive, screw locking, installation kits, standard and thin walls, and extra heavy wall and assortment kits.
We have done the research part for you and have compiled a list of the best stainless steel threaded inserts in the market. These inserts have been reviewed on the basis of the quality of the construction material, size and shape, type and threaded quality. You can check out the list to find the ideal threaded inserts for your project.
E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, 18-8 Stainless Steel, Knife Thread, 1/4″-20 Internal Threads, 0.625″ Length (Pack of 10)
Scored 4.4/5.0 – From 53 Customer Reviews
Priced From $16.30
- Provides a Strong Machine Thread In Hard Woods
- Ideal For Use in Woods Like Oak, Cherry, and Maple
- Designed For Use In Furniture, Cabinetry, Storm Windows and Marine Applications
- Corrosion Resistant
- Proprietary External Knife Threads Provide Superior Holding Power
I’ve been using various sizes of these inserts for some time in hardwood projects. They work great. I do have a few tips, though:1. Drill the hole slightly oversized for hardwood. I use a 9/32″ bit when 1/4″ is specified. I find that the threads will tear out a lot of wood if you try to force them into a smaller hole and you may damage the insert. Apply a bit of wood glue to the outside threads as both a lubricant and to lock them in place.2. Do not try to screw these into place with a flat bladed screwdriver. It’s frustrating and very likely to break the insert. Save the slot on the insert for if/when you have to remove the insert. To drive them, you can buy a tool, but I use a bolt of the right size, with a Phillips, hex or square drive (too hard to “steer” a slotted bolt). Thread a nut on the bolt so enough thread is exposed below the nut to go about 1/2 – 2/3 the way into the insert. Finger-tighten the insert against the nut and drive it in using the bolt. When it is seated, twist the driver backward sharply and the bolt should back out leaving the insert behind (otherwise, use a pair of pliers to loosen the nut).
SSKL250-20-165 300 STAINLESS THIN-NUT, LARGE FLANGE, PLAIN FINISH, 1/4-20 x .030-.165 GRIP RANGE (PACK OF 10)
Scored 5.0/5.0 – From 7 Customer Reviews
Priced From $11.75
E-Z LOK 400-008-CR Threaded Inserts for Wood, Installation Kit, Stainless Steel, Includes 8-32 Knife Thread Inserts (10), Drill, Installation Tool
Scored 5.0/5.0 – From 1 Customer Reviews
Priced From $17.87
E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, 303 Stainless Steel, Knife Thread, #10-24 Internal Threads, 0.500″ Length (Pack of 10)
Scored 5.0/5.0 – From 3 Customer Reviews
Priced From $16.10
E-Z Lok Externally Threaded Insert, 303 Stainless Steel, 3/8″-16 Internal Threads, 9/16″-12 External Threads, 0.515″ Length, Made in US (Pack of 5)
Scored 5.0/5.0 – From 2 Customer Reviews
Priced From $12.25
Scored 5.0/5.0 – From 1 Customer Reviews
Priced From $14.99
- Material: 304 Stainless Steel (most common grade in saltwater applications)
- Diameter: 1/4″, Thread Size: 1/4″-20, Barrel Length: 7/16″, Barrel Diameter: 0.305″
- Flange Diameter: 3/4″, Prongs: 4 Prongs, Drill Hole.: 5/16″
- Included: (25) 304 Stainless Steel T-Nut, 4 Prong, 1/4-20 x 7/16
- Indoor and Outdoor use, excellent corrosion resistance. Perfect for climbing holds, boat trailers, etc.
E-Z Lok EK30615 Helical Threaded Insert Kit, 304 Stainless Steel, #10-32 Thread Size, 0.285″ Installed Length (Pack of 10)
Scored 4.5/5.0 – From 2 Customer Reviews
Priced From $18.40
E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, 303 Stainless Steel, Knife Thread, #8-32 Internal Threads, 0.375″ Length (Pack of 10)
Scored 4.2/5.0 – From 11 Customer Reviews
Priced From $14.20
Installing stainless steel 8-32 inserts into the heel of any bolt-on neck will create the best neck joint you could possibly hope for. This is a fairly simple procedure that will yield excellent sonic transference between an electric guitar’s neck and body. This sonic quality is truly noticeable by most players. It also makes the neck easy to remove and reinstall perfectly, but you already know this from reading prior reviews.Here’s the stuff they don’t tell you…First, DON’T think for a minute that a 10-24 insert will be better in a guitar neck, as in most cases this brings the holes too close to the edge of the neck. This may not be the case on some bass necks. While careful drilling may yield decent results with huge inserts, do you really want test your skill on your precious neck? It’s totally not necessary as the tensile strength of this 8-32 arrangement far exceeds your ability to tighten the neck. You can crush the wood with the 8-32 hardware if you’re strong and foolish enough.Next, in my early daze, I was dumb enough to do this installation using a hand drill. I was lucky it worked. Here’s my advice… DON’T EVER USE A FRIGGEN HAND DRILL, even if the eBay ad you got this idea from says you can. Sure, it can be done, especially if your doing this procedure on your $59. First Act guitar made from 100% recycled cow pie. If you don’t have a drill press, find a friend with one that you can work both electrically and manually (turning the main pulley by hand). You really, really, really should also have a neck cradle of some kind that allows you to clamp the neck (frets down) onto the drill press table so the neck is stable and square while you drill.Next, aside from electrically drilling out the 1/4″ pilot holes with a sharp 1/4″ Forstner drill bit, this will be the only time electrical power needs to be used. The rest of the procedure is done by you turning the drill press manually by hand. You may need a second person to either turn the press’s pulley or to actuate the feed lever. Personally, I do it alone, and hope to god no one is watching me, cause it can look weird spinning the pulley by hand whilst applying downforce to the press’s feed lever and holding the neck steady.SAFETY NOTE… when turning the drill press by hand, consider first unplugging the drill press from the wall outlet. This is always a good idea before sticking your hands into things that will gladly remove your fingers and ruin your guitar-playing experience.DRILLING THE 1/4″ HOLES…. The Forstner bit is great at showing you where you’re about to drill. While centering your bit, you can manually touch off the hole lightly and the bit will naturally make a perfect circle around the existing pilot hole. This lets you judge if your X & Y alignment is correct before you actually plunge the Forstner bit into the wood.Set your drilling speed slow enough so you don’t burn the wood. Also, carefully measure the depth of the plunge to go just past the insert by 1/4″, then immediately set your depth stop (so you don’t forget)! Do NOT drill any deeper than you have to. This just weakens the wood unnecessarily and may make new vent holes in your fretboard for all those hot licks you’ll be playin’. Consider cutting your 1-3/4″ s.s. screws down to the exact length you need- all you truly need is at least 3 threads to catch fully when screwing your screws into the inserts. 4 or more is only marginally better but may give more satisfaction / confidence).TAPPING YOUR NEW HOLES should be done with a 5/16-18 “bottoming” tap, manually turned in the drill press. While turning, apply some light downforce to get the tap started. The threads will begin to cut in allowing you to discontinue the downforce.Now, you’re probably saying to yourself that the insert’s outside thread is a 5/16-16, so that’s the tap you want to use, except you’d be wrong. Sure it will work, but not optimally for this type of installation. The 5/16-18 threads become progressively wider apart in relation to the insert’s outer threads. This gives you perfectly sync’d threads at the beginning of your tapped hole, but then they start to mis-align with the insert’s outer threads as it cuts in deeper in the 1/4″ hole. This causes the insert’s outer cutting threads to cut into more bare wood. REALITY CHECK… The whole point of the insert’s outer “cutting” threads is that they need to cut into VIRGIN wood to be properly seated. The 5/16-18 tap allows this to happen towards the last few turns while seating it. Also, you should install the insert no deeper than the correct depth the FIRST time. Do not over insert it, then back it out to make the depth right. The correct depth is somewhere around .005″ below the surface of the neck’s heel. BTW, a “bottoming” tap is simply a tap that has a flat bottom (no tip) so it can thread all the way to the bottom of a hole. BTW #2… by tapping the holes, this will prevent any chip-out around the hole when inserting the inserts. Countersinking to prevent chip-out is unnecessary and unhelpful.INSERTING THE INSERT… If all you have is a couple of jamb nut and a washer on an 8-32 thread with 4 sides filed flat (so it won’t slip in a chuck), go ahead and use it to drive in the inserts. But if you want something that works much easier, simply use an 8-32 X 1/4″ or 1/2″ Allen head cap screw to drive in the insert. Drive it in manually on the drill press with the appropriate Allen driver bit firmly locked in the chuck (usually a 9/64th Allen driver bit). This will drive it in dead square and the screw will back out effortlessly once the insert is perfectly seated. Just a quick counter-clockwise jolt on the drill press’ main pulley unscrews the Allen head cap screw. No fuss, no muss. And since a visual-robbing washer isn’t required on the Allen head cap screw, you can easily see how far you’ve inserted your inserts into the wood. This is a simpler way IMHO than doing it the jamb nuts / washer method.WHERE DO I GET S.S. SCREWS THAT HAVE THE SAME HEAD AS A FENDER NECK BOLT? McMaster Carr has them listed under part #91802A204 for the 1-3/4″ length and part #91802A203 for the 1-1/2″ length. Both are 18-8 Stainless Steel Oval Head Phillips Machine Screws with 8-32 threads. Some people like using the 1-1/2″ s.s. screw. Others like to use a 1-3/4″ s.s. screw and cut it to the perfect size if need be. Also check out Jamestown Distributors. They’re listed under “#8-32 S/S Machine Screws OP”.Oh yeah, before attaching the neck to your body, you may want to consider using 4 inset neck washers instead of a standard 4-bolt plate. This is because a standard plate could easily warp under the intense tension of your new neck connection. You could look for an extra-thick 4-bolt plate. I think Callaham or a company called Tiapantone.com (probably defunct) may make one. GFS makes one but be aware all their parts are usually made by the lowest Asian bidder. REMEMBER, all these different bolt-on options require different length screws and insert hole depths.Good luck. Try not to hurt yourself.
Scored 4.8/5.0 – From 7 Customer Reviews
Priced From $5.66
I have a project that I am working on and I was going to weld in pieces that were tapped for what I needed, but then I started to think about it and looked for these in stainless. I also bought the Astro Pneumatic 1442 tool which made installing these an absolute joy. I have used threaded inserts before, but the tool was a small pop-rivet style hand tool which was either impossible to compress far enough or broke, the insets all compressed properly and with the tool I bought…. took me way longer to drill a dozen holes in 1/8″ thick aluminum than it did to install them. End result is exactly what I wanted.
E-Z Lok Externally Threaded Insert, 303 Stainless Steel, M6-1.0 Internal Threads, M10x1.5 External Threads, 10.49mm Length, Made in US (Pack of 5)
Scored 4.6/5.0 – From 3 Customer Reviews
Priced From $11.81
My husband used these little inserts to fix a hole in my engine block. A bolt to my water pump broke off and he had to drill it outwhich lead to the hole. As far as I’m concerned they were little miracle workers because I have my car back.
Threaded inserts are used when you have to repair a stripped threaded hole or place a thread on a material that is otherwise to fragile or thin to accept threading. The inserts mainly have industrial use and they are required in different projects.
We hope that you found our review of the best stainless steel threaded inserts informative and you were able to find the ideal one that fulfills your purpose. We would love to know which of these threaded inserts you chose and why. What has been your experience of using them? If you have any suggestions for us, do send them through the comments section below.